How to: eyeliner – part 1

Posted by Dasha makeup on May 16, 2012 · 1 Comment 

One of the most seen trends on catwalks this spring was the eyeliner in different shapes and textures. I decided to write a post in 2 parts to explain you the eyeliner tips & tricks.
Before we discuss the technique of applying the eyeliner (that will follow in the 2nd part of the post), I’d like to present you the tools that you need to create the winged line and explain some different shapes of eyeliner.
Probably, the most copied and inspiring eyeliner style is from the 60’s, worn by the famous fashion icon Brigitte Bardot. Who is not inspired by the black and sexy looking cat eyes… This trend was reinvented in fashion so many times and is still one of the favorites even in nowadays trends. I especially like when the wings are drawn in different ways, styles and thickness and also with different types of eyeliner. So let’s start from the beginning 🙂
Here are some examples from 2012 spring runaways where different designers incorporated the eyeliner in their look in many different ways. I like very much colored or shimmer liners, which are really fine for a disco party and they give a fresh and youthful look. While the classic black and matte shape à la Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s is more appropriate for sophisticated events and it speaks all about elegance. But when the same black matte line is drawn in a different way, extended out and drawn even around the lower lid,  it can look very sexy with rock’n’roll allure. For a natural day look you can choose even a brown version of eyeliner, especially for light skin and eyes. Before creating your look, you have to decide which eyeliner style do you feel that day 🙂

eyeliner on spring 2012 runways: Badgley Mischka, Antonio Marras (via Elle.com)

eyeliner on spring 2012 runways: Ruffian, Giorgio Armani (via Elle.com, Style.com)

eyeliner on fall 2012 runways: Anna Sui, Jean Paul Gaultier (via Style.com)

Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s and Lanvin fall 2012 runways (via Pinterest.com, Style.com)

I have chosen many eyeliner looks to show you the difference and understand how the line and texture of the eyeliner change the appearance. For instance, on the Jean Paul Gaultier runway the gel eyeliner was used around both eye lids and smudged to create a “messy” look.

How can I wear the eyeliner?
That is one of the most frequent questions when deciding which style of make-up we want to wear. My answer is yes, anyone can wear the eyeliner, but not every eye shape can wear every shape and thickness of line. That depends on the shape of your eyes and overall features of the face. For instance, if your eyes are small with a hidden upper eyelid, the thick black winged line around the eyes won’t suit you the best, cause it will make your eyes even smaller. Take a look at the picture below to see how the shape and thickness of the line affects and change the shape of the eyes:

how the shape of the line affect your eye shape (via Pinterest.com)

Tools needed for applying the eyeliner and different types of eyeliner

When talking about eyeliners usually we have in mind the liquid eyeliner with a small incorporated brush that is a “nightmare-to-apply” for many women 🙂 Fortunately, this is not the only option and the greatest news is that you can choose between different types of eyeliner and you don’t necessarily have to use the incorporated brush to apply the eyeliner. You just need some skills and practice to do it well. But most of all, don’t be afraid of it, otherwise the result will really be a mess!

There are different forms of eyeliner:

– liquid eyeliner (it can be with a brush wand or with a more handy sponge wand)
– cake eyeliner (you have to apply it with a wet brush and you have more control about it) – on the top picture from Nvey eco
– gel eyeliner (usually they are waterproof and they also glide smoothly on the eyes)
– mineral powder (you have to apply it with a wet brush and is similar to cake eyeliner, the pro is that you can create as many colors as you want)

From left: Jane Iredale colored liquid eyeliner, Lavera black liquid eyeliner, 100%pure gel eyeliner, Lauren Brooke powder eyeliners in different colors

…and there are different shapes of brushes to apply eyeliner:

Different brushes for applying the eyeliner from Bdellium tools

from left to right:

1. small angled brush
2. extra fine narrow pointed eyeliner brush
3. extra fine narrow pointed eyeliner brush with bent head
4. flat brush
5. eyeliner brush with tapered tip

Check here the review of Bdellium make-up brushes from the green line.

This is the first part of my post (more “technically” oriented). Stay tuned for the 2nd part where we will change the theory in practice 🙂

Filed under beauty · Tagged with eyeliner, how to